With the first generation Audi Q7 you can tow things, transport things, travel long distances comfortably and even go to the forest, for some mushrooms perhaps? Well you can, since it has a very good standard 4 wheel drive system and a height adjustable adaptive air suspension- standard on most cars. But despite of these things it’s definitely not a proper off-road car since it doesn’t have a low range gearbox, locking differentials or a proper ladder frame.
This very first Audi SUV shares the same but slightly modified platform with the first generation Porsche Cayenne and VW Touareg, but the Q7 is longer than these cars so it was available as a 7 seater version too.
The interior of the cars sold in the EU can be equipped with only the standard equipment which contains for example the horrible looking standard monochromatic MMI screen, or the standard manually adjustable fabric seats, or the… well, and then nothing else basically.
On the other side, most of these cars are reasonably well equipped with: navigation system, leather seats or blind spot monitoring system for example. And sometimes you can find also cars with a wealthy looking full leather interior-with leather dash and door panels and center console, with the impressive 14 speaker Bang and Olufsen sound system, with heated and ventilated front seats, with the 4-zone automatic AC, with rear seat entertainment package and with all those other fancy features.
When it comes to build quality or materials quality – there are basically no huge issues.
All the plastic parts in the interior are fairly durable, so finding a car with worn plastic buttons is not that easy. But if you found one, then most probably the keyless start stop buttons or the windows switches will be worn out + some of the owners complained about a rattling sound from the rear-middle seats on bad quality roads. The panoramic sunroof can make various creaks or rattles as well, and the front center armrest is also more prone to creaks, but other than this the interior is well built.
Let’s move on to the things which can fail more often:
-The first possible issue is related to the windscreen wipers. Interestingly the passenger side wiper arm can simply break which can be an unpleasant surprise during driving in the rain
-Then it’s good to check the keyless entry feature if the car is equipped with it, because the keyless sensors in the handles can fail. In this case you have to buy a new handle, or you can try to find a used one. But remember, that the faulty keyless entry handles can drain the battery!
-The next thing on the list is the blower motor which can simply stop working. It’s located behind the glove box so replacing it is not very hard and there are videos on the internet how to replace it + you can save money if you buy a cheaper aftermarket part. (But sometimes it’s enough to remove and clean the old motor)
-The early cars made to 2007 can have issues with the regular non-LED taillights, which means that the bulbs in them will keep burning out or they simply won’t work → unless you replace the wiring harness. But some say that it’s enough to pull up the bottom contact in the bulb socket a bit → to make a firmer contact with the bottom of the bulb, so you can try this in the first place
–Check the electronically operated tailgate as well. If it’s not closing properly, then most probably the latch is faulty. The electronic motors are usually fine, but the gas struts obviously will get weaker over time
-You should also check if the rear windscreen wiper and washer system is working properly. The washer fluid should hit the rear windscreen with normal pressure → since the rear windscreen washer fluid line or the washer motor itself can leak
By the way, because of the position of the front cup holders, there are cases when owners simply spilled drinks onto the MMI control panel. And if this happens then the MMI system won’t work at all. So in this case you have to change this control panel or just buy a new circuit board for the panel which is a much cheaper solution.
-And last but not least, there is the MMI multimedia system which can stop working, most of the time because of a failed amplifier which fails because of a well known water leak. So as in the other cars the water will cause premature death of some of the electronic modules and I don’t think you would like any of that!
There are basically 3 well known sources of water leaks into the interior:
1. AC evaporator drain hose
-Let’s start with the easiest one which is related to clogged AC evaporator drain hose located under the glove box. If it’s clogged, the water will leak onto the passenger side carpet, but luckily it’s not hard to clean this drain hose → just remove the plastic cover under the glove box, slide off the rubber tube, clean it with compressed air or with some edge trimmer line and that’s it.
2. drains under the windshield
-The next possible source of water leak are the clogged drains under the windshield, causing, again – water in the front footwell. Basically, the scuttle area under the windshield will get full of dried out leaves and other shit over time. There are 2 rubber drain plugs behind each front wheel well cover on both sides of the car which drain the water from this scuttle area. Now, these rubber inserts get clogged too and this will cause the water to accumulate in the scuttle area which will eventually leak into the interior. But not only that, since the engine ECU is located in this area too which can get easily damaged by water !! So occasionally just remove these rubber plugs and flush the area with water + clean the scuttle area from the upper side to avoid experiencing these issues.
3. sunroof drains
-And the lastly, the most expensive water leak is caused by the infamous sunroof drains
There are 4 drain tubes in each corner of the big 3 part panoramic sunroof, and they can leak. Either because the drain tubes are clogged which is not a big surprise, but also because of the upper plastic endings of the drain tubes which simply get a little loose over time creating a gap around the connection → which allows the water to leak not just into, but also onto the drain hose. The front drain tubes allow the water to collect in the front footwell area and the rear drain tubes allow the water to drip in the trunk spare tire area and most importantly, right onto the amplifier which is located on the right side of the trunk. The failed amp will cause issues with the MMI multimedia system like: no sound, random rebooting, it can drain the battery or the whole system will not work at all.
Keep in mind that all the MMI modules are connected with fiber optics so if one module is completely faulty, then the whole system will not work at all. If you don’t know which module is faulty then you can purchase a fiber optic loop bypass connector which will help you to find the faulty module. But remember, sometimes even two modules can be faulty at the same time so in that case you have to buy more bypass loops.
If you don’t know which module is faulty, then you have to check all the modules by disconnecting each module and connecting the specific module cable to the bypass connector. So for example if your MMI is not working and you connect the amplifier cable to the bypass loop and the MMI starts working but without sound, then the amp is faulty.
And another funny thing – if you want to replace the amplifier for example with a new or used one, then you will have to bring it to the dealer to code it specifically to your car. But it’s also possible to repair it and in this case there is no need to code it since it’s the same amp.
But let’s go back to the loose drain connections and how to fix them. First you have to access them by removing some of the parts of the headliner. Then you can fix the connections freestyle basically, so you can put some glue into the gaps or cut off the faulty connection, heat up the drain tube and put the connection inside the drain tube. At the end any fix is better than no fix.
Also keep in mind that various electronic gremlins can pop up at low battery voltage! + when putting in a new battery – you should do a recalibration/new coding of it via the diagnostic computer, since the battery management system acts differently to a new battery!
This Q7 was available with the standard or with the adaptive air suspension.
The air suspension is fairly reliable. If something breaks on it, then it’s usually the air compressor or one of the height sensors + it’s good to check the height sensor link rods because they can be seized up! There are also cases of sticking residual pressure valves causing that one side of the car will be higher or lower (this valve is on top of each air strut). On the other side there are not many cases of leaking air struts yet, but they will obviously start to leak sooner or later mainly because of the age, not because of high mileage. So on cars which are older than 10-15 years I would be definitely prepared to replace them.
Most of the other suspension parts (control arms, bushings, ball joints) are durable, but coming to 200 000 km some of them can be worn out. However things which will be definitely worn out much earlier, are the tires and brakes!
Besides the regular steel brakes, some of the versions were available with the Carbon-ceramic brakes too. They obviously last a lot longer than the regular steel brakes, and they are powerful. On the other side they are really, really expensive, so it’s good to avoid these car with ceramic brakes mainly if they have more than 130 000 or 150 000 km, unless you have the money to replace them or they were replaced recently.
All the petrol engines are equipped with direct injection, so the well known problems with carbon build up or faulty injectors can occur. Ignition coils can fail as well, but this is nothing new and you can obviously minimize the possibility of these issues. (bigger carbon build up after 200 000 km, mostly 4.2 FSI and 3.6 FSI)
Then mainly the 3.6 l and the 4.2 l engines can have faulty camshaft adjustment solenoids. Usually they get stuck because of long oil change intervals → and in this case you get fault codes for the camshaft position, misfires or fluctuating/bouncing idle. The 6 cylinder engines have two of them and the 4.2 l V8 has 4 of these solenoids, but interestingly replacing them is much easier on the V8 engine than on the 3.6 l motor. Sometimes you can get slight oil leak from them as well, but in this case there is no need to replace them completely, you just need to change a small o ring on them.
3.6 l FSI
The 3.6 l, 6 cylinder engine is not bad, but in cars made to 2007 it can have issues with the oil pump bolt. So basically, the oil pump sprocket bolt can break or it just become loose over time causing loose sprocket → loose timing chain and in the worst case → a destroyed engine! This is not extremely common, but it can sometimes happen on low mileage as well as on high mileage cars. They say that the bolt they used is not strong enough + it was not torqued properly from the factory on some cars. Interestingly, cars made from 2008 do have updated – stronger oil pump bolt so they won’t have this issue. All in all, if you want to preventively change this bolt on cars made to 2007 then you can, but you have to remove the engine to access it so keep money for this.
Then there is the 4.2 l V8 FSI which can have some problems too:
First of all, this engine has two high pressure fuel pumps. The good thing is, that they are located on the top of the engine so replacing them is pretty easy and they usually don’t fail completely. However at some point they will slowly start to leak fuel. Now, you can’t buy just the solenoid unit itself as a spare part, so you have to buy the complete pump. And if one of the pumps starts to leak, then don’t worry, because the other will sooner or later leak as well. Long story short you should definitely occasionally check them, since in some cases they started to leak even after 140 000 km.
Then you can expect oil and coolant leaks. However in this case because of the lack of space you have to remove the whole engine if you want to fix certain leaks (engine out job: rear timing chain cover leak or the spark plug tube seals leak)
+The variable intake manifold in this engine is a complicated piece of shit actually. And why? Well, because of the plastic insides mainly. But long story short:
- the inside of the intake manifold gets dirty over time
- the plastic bits in it are gonna get brittle – break – and fall apart (eventually the bits can be sucked into the cylinders IN THE WORST CASE-so rarely)
- the 2 electric actuators mounted on front of the manifold can fail too
The only good thing is that these issues are gonna occur usually just after 200 000 km – 250 000km.
After 200 000 km you should be prepared to change the timing chain and the plastic guides too, but I will come back to this topic a little later.
However cars made from 2009 (very late 2008) have an updated more simpler plastic intake manifold which should not cause issues. /the old problematic intake manifold is made from magnesium, the newer reliable is made from plastic/
This engine don’t have any extraordinary issues, except the already mentioned direct injection related problems + sometimes leaking water pump or the exhaust flexible pipe can fail. +it can have usually smaller but sometimes bigger oil consumption.
Lastly, it’s important to:
-check all the fluid levels before buying
-check the coolant: it has to be topped up, clean and pink without any oil smell or oil traces (check the coolant only while the engine is cold !!!)
-start the car when it’s cold and check for an uneven idle or shaking which indicates misfires, the engine has to run smoothly all the time
The 3.0l V6 TDI is a very popular engine, and it’s actually not a bad choice at all, but it can have some issues:
-The variable intake manifold flaps are gonna fail at some point. The flaps can be stuck, loose or the actuator motors can be faulty. In this case you get only a check engine light, so the car will drive fine. The whole intake manifold part is obviously expensive but you can find repair kits for a much reasonable price + you can buy the actuator motors separately as well.
-Then there are cases of popped out fuel injectors because of the snapped bolt on the injector in cars made from 2009 or 2011 which have more than 100 000 km. So, it’s good to occasionally check these bolts or preventively replace them if you want.
-It’s also good to check and eventually replace the crankshaft pulley vibration damper mainly in cars which were used on winter salty roads. Since over time the inner part of the pulley will rust out and separate from the outer part. This will leave you stranded because the accessory belt will jump off so it’s better to check this pulley before you will wonder what the hell happened.
-Lastly there are occasionally cases of cracked cylinder heads or leaking head gaskets on these V6 units. In my opinion it’s because the owners don’t wait until the engine is warmed up properly and since this is not the most powerful engine and the Q7 is heavy, they rev the engine a lot when it’s still cold → and this can result in the already mentioned issues. Because of this I would highly recommend to at least check the coolant while the engine is still cold. It has to be clean, topped up and you shouldn’t see any oil in it.
“With a cold engine look into the coolant with a lamp and also smell the coolant for oil. If the coolant is not light red and clean, and if there are traces of oil → then just walk away.”
The 4.1 l V8 TDI is a pretty damn good engine actually, and it’s also reasonably reliable. So if you want enough power to overtake most of the cars on the road, but you also want an acceptable fuel consumption then choose this engine. If it’s maintained properly and used mainly on longer journeys then it can easily whitstand 400 000 km without major repairs. BUT it is a big and complex engine so fixing the various leaks is not gonna be the cheapest + it has 2 turbochargers which are usually ok, however in cars which have more than 300 000 km or in the more abused cars they will fail.
If you want something special, impressive and insane at the same time then choose the rare 6.0 l V12 TDI. The reliability of this V12 is basically the same as the reliability of the V8 – so it doesn’t have unexpected major problems. Just keep in mind that:
-it has 12 injectors and 2 high pressure fuel pumps (this stuff is gonna fail at some point: one new injector – 700€)
-there is a bigger chance that the previous owner abused it
-if it will leak oil or coolant then most probably the engine will have to come out to fix those leaks because there is no space around the engine
-cars equipped with this engine have carbon ceramic brakes as standard which can withstand 250 000 km but they are very expensive to replace (19 000 € to replace all the discs and pads)
+most of the mechanics have never seen this engine (not even on a picture)
All in all, most of these V12 cars currently for sale have around 200 000 km. If you want to buy one with a mileage like this, then check properly the engine for leaks, make sure there is no smoke from the exhaust at idle or at acceleration after warming up-which will indicate faulty injectors, check the remaining life of the brakes and keep extra money for at least the brake pads, and that’s all. If the car is in good condition then with the proper maintenance and use it can most probably withstand another 50 000 km – 100 000 km without big issues (and you can tow space shuttles with that much power).
Faulty Injectors + HPFP
All diesel engines can have/are gonna have faulty injectors at some point – usually after 200 000 km be ready for this failure. In this case you can most of the time notice a couple of signs like the: occasional light grey smoke from the exhaust while acceleration or at idle, and also a slightly bouncing idle/fluctuating RPM when the engine is warmed up, eventually issues when starting the engine-long cranking and shit.
“If you want to minimize issues with the injectors and high pressure fuel pumps, then it’s really important to use only high quality premium diesel fuel/eventually some good quality additives“
Keep in mind that the newest diesel engines made from 2008 (so the 3.0 TDI 176 kw, 3.0 TDI 180 kw, 4.2 TDI 250 kw, 6.0 TDI V12) are equipped with the infamous CP4 high pressure fuel pump which can sometimes fail even after 150 000 km (MOSTLY JUST in Eastern EU or US). If it fails it will throw small metal particles in the fuel system, thus destroying the injectors, the HPFP, and sometimes these particles will contaminate the fuel tank as well. More information about this failure in this BMW X5 article.
All of the engines are equipped with timing chains. The tensioners and the plastic guides can be worn + the chain can be stretched, but again just after 200 000 km. Now, in this case you get the well known short rattle at cold start so check for this rattle before buying!
But the funny thing is that there aren’t many catastrophic engine failures because of the timing chains. I’m not saying that there aren’t any at all because they are, but they really are not that common – at least amongst the diesel engines. (the petrol engines can more often end up with failed chain mechanism, at least in my personal humble experience)
In real life a good amount of owners with rattling chains can’t be bothered to replace them, so they are testing the chains lifetime this way. Although, again, I have to add that a rattling chain on a petrol engine is gonna most probably fail sooner than later!
All in all, the chain can rattle a month and then the it can jump a teeth – making the engine run like garbage, or you suddenly end up with a destroyed engine. But it can also rattle for a couple of years without other problems-on the diesel engines. At the end of the day it’s up to you, if you want to push your luck with a rattling engine or not, but at 300 000 km I would definitely recommend replacing it if the car still has the original chain from the factory.
The timing chains are located on the back side of the engine so you have to remove the engine to change them.
This Q7 can be equipped with the:
- older 6 speed automatic gearbox
- newer 8 speed automatic gearbox
- + the 3.6 l petrol engine was available with a very, very, VERY RARE 6 speed manual as well
The automatic transmissions are usually ok, just check them before buying. They should change gears smoothly without slipping, hesitation or fluctuating RPM. + after 200 000 – 250 000 km you should be prepared to replace the torque converter mainly if the previous owner never changed the oil in the gearbox or the car was used a lot for towing (bad torque converter symptoms: fluctuating RPM, slipping, hesitation, shuddering/vibration at acceleration).
It’s also important to check the fluid level in the differentials and change it regularly! The old or low differential fluid will kill the differentials over time.
+change the oil in the transfer case too since there are cases of transfer case failures !
And lastly, don’t forget to check the car properly for little rust bubbles mainly on the tailgate and around the door handles. I’m not saying that this car is notorious for rust because it’s not (the rust protection is actually pretty damn good), but it’s definitely good to check these weaker areas more closely.
To summarize things up:
- from the petrol engines the 3.6 l V6 and the 3.0 TFSI are a good/reasonabe choice
- from the diesel engines the most reasonable is the 3.0 TDI but if you have more money to spend then the 4.2 TDI is great
- check the car properly for traces of water/moisture in the interior (if you are buying a car with the panoramic sunroof)
- buy only a car with a proper maintenance history
- find a good independent mechanic
- change all the fluids in time
- keep at least 3 000 € for the possible repairs, and if you are buying a car with more than 200 000 km then you should keep twice as much money
And if you have personal experience with this car or more information about it, then you can write it into comments!