“The ugliest 5 series ever. The most unreliable 5 series ever. You should buy a Japanese car instead.”
And I could continue spreading these popular opinions about this particular car. But you know what? I don’t think that it deserves this much hate. Of course the design is far away from traditional, on the other side it is timeless. Compared to the E39, the E60 looks like a brand new car, and even compared to the F10 it still looks up to date. The reliability? Well, the reliability is questionable. And if you are not familiar with fixing your own car, or if you don’t have an independent specialist near you, or if you don’t want to spend extra money for some of the things which will break, then yes you should choose a Japanese car instead. But I have to add that believe it or not, a high mileage 5 series is not like a loch-ness monster, you know everybody heard about it but almost nobody have seen it. There are plenty of high mileage 5 series BMWs, so reaching 400 000 or 500 000 km with this car is not impossible at all.
The interior of this BMW is, well, controversial. But it is fairly quiet, the optional front comfort seats are exceptionally comfortable and it has good ergonomics-except maybe the first generation slower iDrive system. On the other side, problems with the peeling plastic on the steering wheel, on the center console, door handles or on the power windows switch can occur, but mostly on the before facelift cars which are used in hot climate areas. There are some complaints about creaking or rattling noises from the sunroof, dashboard or doors, however, the build quality improved in the facelifted version.
The rust protection of this BMW is overall good, but the estate version can have more often visible rust on the edges of the tailgate-under the rear window. Just open that rear window and check those edges. And by the way, the front of this BMW is completely made from aluminium. Because of this it has very good weight distribution and very good handling too. On the other side because of this, it’s more complicated and more expensive to repair after a crash.
-I would not recommend buying a car which is equipped with the panoramic sunroof, because the clogged water drains cause water leak into the interior, the sunroof mechanism itself can have issues + the sunroof can make various noises and there are cases of worn sunroof seals as well. The regular small sunroof can have the same problems basically, but the sunroof itself usually works as it should.
-By the way, it’s worth checking the rubber trim om the top of the windshield and mainly around the rear window, because it can disintegrate over time. On the other side, it’s not that expensive and you can replace it even yourself.
-The early production cars, mostly from the first two or three years of production can have more often problems with the electronics. Mainly the iDrive system itself can cause some issues and there are cases of battery draining. Fixing the various electronic malfunctions can be very expensive and time consuming, obviously. On the other side plenty of these cars have already fixed or replaced most of these electronic parts and there are actually companies which can repair for example the faulty Car Communication Computer (CCC) – the iDrive module basically, for approximately 200 € which is not that bad. But all in all, if you want to minimize the issues with the electronic equipment, then you should choose a car which was made from 2006, or the facelifted version from 2007.
-As usual check properly all the electronics, the electrically adjustable seats can sometimes not work properly-mainly the leg extension mechanism can fail. And obviously all those usual things like the window regulators, parking sensors or the seat heating can fail as well. So check them.
-The touring version can have issues with the non working electronic tailgate. This is usually caused by the broken wiring harness which goes to the tailgate. The other earlier symptoms of this problem are: not working rear window defroster, bad radio reception, or the not working remote locking. The new wiring harness costs around 100€, but you need to find someone who is at least a little familiar with electronics, if you can’t fix this yourself of course.
-Definitely check the scuttle panel under the windscreen for water which can be trapped here. So, remove the cabin air filter housing, the plastic cover under it and then you get access to the scuttle panel and the brake servo. The water is often trapped here and it can ruin the brake servo-which is expensive, or it can get into the interior and cause some electronic problems as well.
All of this is because of the clogged rubber grommet which will get full of shit over time. You can clean it, or just remove it.
“As usual choose a car with regular maintenance history and check for software updates, like for real.”
This BMW was available with the standard suspension or with the factory sport suspension. The M5 had electronically adjustable suspension but that’s another story.
The suspension parts start to worn out after approximately 150 000 km or 200 000 km. For example the control arms will definitely fail at some point. But the good thing is, that in this case you can change the bushings in the control arms separately, so in a lot of cases you don’t need to buy the whole control arm which can save you some money. The shock absorbers are not that expensive either.
On the other side there are cars which are equipped with the active hydraulic anti-roll bars which significantly reduce body roll in corners, of course only if they work properly. Because they can leak and sometimes even completely fail. So check your power steering fluid level regularly and it’s good to change it regularly as well since these special anti-roll bars are using the same fluid as the power steering. All in all, I would recommend to avoid cars with this feature if you are not willing to pay for these parts if they break.
The touring version is standardly equipped with the air suspension on the rear axle. The air bags will, again fail at some point so be prepared to replace them. The compressor itself and sometimes on one of the height sensors can fail as well. A brand new air spring costs around 318 €, aftermarket for around 130 €.
“Occasionally it’s good to replace the air compressor air filter too – new filter costs around 40€.”
The standard equipment included: power windows and mirrors, the iDrive system with small screen, standard seats or the standard climate control panel. The optional equipment included everything you can and can’t imagine, so: optional front fully electrically adjustable massage seats which can be heated and ventilated, night vision, adaptive cruise control, heated and electrically adjustable multifunctional steering wheel with shift paddles, soft close doors, head up display, various leather color combinations, alcantara headliner and so on.
Keep it simple they say and I agree. So the most reliable petrol engines are the 6 cylinders with the N52 and M54 engine codes-because they don’t have direct injection or turbocharger.
The 4 cylinder engine with the M54 engine code is not that bad either but it’s not very powerful.
On the other side, all of the engines made from 2007 do have direct injection, so issues with the injectors, carbon build up or high pressure fuel pumps can occur. The turbocharged N54 6 cylinder is quite famous because of the issues with the already mentioned high pressure fuel pumps and injectors.
I would not recommend buying any of the V8 engines mainly if you don’t have at least 4 000 or 5 000 € for the additional repairs. Mainly the older V8 in the 545i model is more famous because of the various leaks which can be expensive to fix, or issues with the alternator or thermostat for example. And there is also the infamous coolant transfer pipe o-ring failure which can occur. In this case you basically get a coolant leak in a not very convenient part of the engine. In the past the whole engine had to be removed to fix this, but nowadays it’s easier and cheaper to repair it without removing the engine, but it’s still not extremely cheap – 1 000 – 2 000 € to fix it. The 550i model is definitely a beter choice.
Generally speaking all the petrol engines will have at some point problems with the various oil and coolant leaks, the usual valve cover gasket and oil filter housing gasket leaks can occur, the water pump can fail as well, so you definitely need to have some money left for the possible repairs. “After 150 000 km it’s good to preventively replace the water pump”
All the diesel engines are reliable, so you can expect only usual issues, except the 2.0 l N47 4 cylinder made from 2007 which can have problems with the prematurely worn timing chain mechanism.
The swirl flaps should be nowadays removed on lot of these engines, but if they are not removed, then you should remove them-because they can be sucked directly into the engine causing serious issues. You can buy these special blanks for only around 24€ and put them instead of the swirl flaps.
All the engines are equipped with timing chain which is usually ok. But as I said the N47 2.0 l diesel engine can have worn timing chain-in some cases after 100 000 km.
The manual gearboxes are usually ok, just check the clutch.
The 6 speed automatic transmission is usually ok as well, but you definitely should change the oil in it. There are of course cases of various issues with it but mainly because of the never changed gearbox oil + definitely check it for leaks too.
I would avoid the 7 speed SMG gearbox, it’s not very reliable and it’s expensive to repair.
As usual check the car properly before buying, the gaps between the body panels should be even, listen for strange noises from the engine or suspension and change all the fluids regularly. If you have personal experience with this car then you can write it into comments!